Politics has had a place in the kitchens of the nation. Indirectly, at least.

Politics drove Sir John A MacDonald in his quest for a railroad through the Rocky Mountains. His vaunted "National Policy", proclaimed as British Columbia joined Confederation in 1871, explicitly aimed to support Eastern manufacturing interests, settle the West, and connect the two via a transcontinental, all-Canadian railroad. The railroad was built, two spurs meeting at Craigellachie, where the Last Spike was driven in 1885. (Modern travelers on the TransCanada Highway that now mostly parallels the railroad route can pull in at Eagle Pass to see this historic spot.)

The Canadian railroad system achieved world pre-eminence for its fine regional cuisine, mandated by CPR president, gourmet, and "railway general"; William Van Horne in an intelligent bid to gain sophisticated travelers from Europe and Asia. This is acknowledged by the one and only Pierre Berton in Pierre and Janet Berton's Canadian Food Guide (McClelland and Stewart, 1966). "... if there is a distinctively Canadian style of cuisine, it is this; and not too surprising that, in an artificial nation bound together by bands of steel, it should spring directly from our (railway) dining cars." During the 1880's and 1890's, Canadian Pacific's rolling dining cars and boats served each and every meal for a flat seventy-five cents. A train traveler riding from Winnipeg to Medicine Hat in 1887 could expect eight courses and a total of thirty-five dishes at luncheon. For seventy-five cents!

In 1888, Van Horne heard, in glowing terms, about Lake Louise from a pair of mountaineers, members of the British Association for the Advancement of Science, which had been among the first groups to climb in and around the area of Lake Louise. Van Horne was engaged at the time in constructing an ad campaign designed to attract visitors into the Rockies -- via rail, of course -- to hike, fish and sightsee from the comfort of the hotels built by Canadian Pacific in the mountains.

"We would have to provide a few sleeping bunks and a small kitchen...", says one of Van Horne's letters to Superintendent William Whyte, inviting response to the thought of putting up a small chalet for excursions from the Banff Springs Hotel to Laggan Station, close by Lake Louise. Two years later, a log cabin was built on the lakeshore, surrounded by bogs, brush and the sheer untouched beauty of the Rocky Mountains. Hardy visitors disembarked from the train at Laggan Station to walk beside the creek to the lakeshore. Less adventurous types rode in a horse and carriage. The rustic cabin burnt to the ground in 1893, replaced by a modest chalet, two storeys high and enclosed by verandas, large enough to accommodate up to twenty guests. Tents, soon replaced by additional chalets, were pitched for additional guests.

Van Horne proved prophetic. "Since we cannot export the scenery, we will have to import the tourists," he said, and he was right. Fifty guests registered at Lake Louise in 1890. Twenty-two later, the total had risen to fifty thousand. A string of noted architects put time and effort into the chalet on the edge of the lake, resulting in a charming, slightly eccentric merging of styles. In 1924, however, fire devastated much of the Chalet. Its new shape was fairly unornamented, prompting negative criticism from Parks Canada. Not "chateau-esque" enough, they said.

Table d'hôte menus from Chateau Lake Louise in 1941 were set at two dollars per person for a multi-course dinner and a buck and a half for luncheon. They included distinctly Canadian dishes, such as braised northern buffalo steak served with a Cumberland sauce; Rocky Mountain cream cheese, Québécois Oka and Trappist, or Ontario cheddar on the cheese tray; Columbia Valley pears and Okanagan Valley fruits; Alberta lamb, Lake Superior trout, Red Brand Alberta beef, smoked Winnipeg goldeye.

Nearly sixty years later, perusal of the Chateau's current dining room menus shows similarity in content, although a clear departure from the French Continental style embraced in the 1940's and 1950's is evident in The Victoria Room's regional menu. The table d'hôte menu, now forty-nine dollars per person for four courses, includes a choice straight out of history. Shrimp Cocktail "Princess Louise" is named in honor of the sixth child of Queen Victoria and her consort, Albert. Louise Caroline Alberta was a suffragist, a sculptor and painter who married JD Campbell, later made the Marquis of Lorne and Governor-General of Canada. The province of Alberta, Lake Louise and the bustling town of Caroline were named in honor of the Princess.) Diners who wish to taste the modern take on regional Alberta cuisine might be tempted by venison pate with rosehips and apple compote, or ravioli stuffed with pheasant, duck and wild boar. Alberta beef appears as a consommé afloat with shreds of Okanagan pear, and as enduringly popular prime rib or grilled steak glazed with British Columbian wine.

In the Edelweiss Room, Canadian cuisine is saluted from sea to sea with creations from chefs at CP Hotels across the nation. It is in this dining room that CP subtly redresses the racism directed towards Chinese immigrant labourers of the 1800's. In BC, Chinese immigrants were the primary workforce that lay track, pounded ties into place, blasted dynamite to clear tunnels through mountain passes, and died by the thousands in a demanding, dangerous job for which few were trained. After the railroad was built, the Chinese men faced fairly comprehensive antagonism and racism. Many ended up opening hand laundries or noodle houses, and saved their meagre pennies to bring wives and children to join them. The Chateau's inclusion of Asian ingredients in some of its signature dishes may not seem like an overt political act, but it can be construed as such.

Even now, a century later, politics can find a place in the kitchen.

Alberta Lamb with Moroccan Tagine Sauce
This pretty braised dish was served for luncheon at Chateau Lakes Louise's second annual Canadian Food and Wine weekend, held amid light snowfall at Lake Louise on May 5-7, 2000. Home cooks might prefer to braise a lamb shoulder, then shred or slice it for serving.
Serves 2- 6

1 lamb rack, cleaned 1
1 Tbsp. olive oil 45 mL
1 medium onion, finely minced 1
2 stalks celery, diced 2 stalks
2 carrots, diced 2
2 garlic cloves 2
1 bay leaf 1
1 cinnamon stick 1
1 Tbsp. brown sugar 45 mL
5 oz. tomato paste 140 mL
6 oz. (by weight) Roma tomatoes, diced 180 g
1 tsp. coriander seeds 5 mL
1 tsp. cumin seeds 5 mL
5 oz. lamb demi-glace 140 mL

Lightly sear the lamb rack in the olive oil. Set it aside.

Combine all other ingredients and simmer or roast in a medium oven (350F) for one hour. Add the lamb, cover and simmer for an additional hour, turning the meat once or twice. Skim off the excessive fat. Serve with Mixed Greens and Deep-fried Goat's Cheese in Orange Dressing (see recipe), couscous, roasted potatoes or steamed rice.

Mixed Greens with Deep-Fried Goat's Cheese Fritters and Orange Dressing
This pretty luncheon salad was the second course at Chateau Lake Louise's food and wine weekend, and was demonstrated by executive chef Dominique Guyot and his executive sous chef Patrick Bourachot.

Serves 6

6 cups mesclun 1.5 L
6 cheese fritters (see recipe) 6
3/4 cup Orange Vinaigrette 120-180 mL

Toss the mesclun in the vinaigrette while the fritters are cooking. Divide the greens onto six plates, then garnish with the cheese fritter.

Cheese Fritters
If you don't have a Deep-fryer, bake these patties in a hot oven, and very carefully transfer them to the plate. They are fragile.

Serves 6

1/3 cup couscous 80 mL
1/3 cup boiling water 80 mL
2 oz. snow goat's cheese, crumbled 60 g
1 tsp. minced chives 5 mL
1 tsp. minced mint 5 mL
1 egg 1
1/2 cup all-purpose flour 120 mL
1 cup breadcrumbs 240 mL
1/4 cup toasted sesame seeds 60 mL

Put the couscous into a heatproof bowl and pour the boiling water over it. Cover with a snug lid and let stand until cool. Add the cheese, chives, mint, egg and flour and mix well. Form into six tidy patties.

Combine the breadcrumbs and sesame seeds. Dredge the patties in the mixture and sauté in hot oil, turning once.

Orange Dressing
This cooked orange vinaigrette would make a fine basis for a marinade, a dazzling duck dressing, or a happy companion for grilled fish. It also works on salad greens!

Makes 1 liter.

2 oranges
1 cup water 240 g
1/4 cup white sugar 50 g
1 1/4 cups rice wine vinegar 300 mL
1 1/4 cups olive oil 300 mL
1 1/4 cups vegetable oil 300 mL
1-2 shallots or green onions, finely minced 1-2
salt and pepper to taste

Using a zester or channel knife, strip all the peel and some of the pith of the oranges into a heavy - bottomed pot. Segment the orange and add the pieces to the pot. Add the water and sugar; bring to a boil, reducing the volume by one-third. Add the vinegar and boil for three minutes. Cool. Puree in a food processor if desired, then whisk in the oils. Stir in the shallots.